Let me start off by saying that I’m not a steak guy. Not that I don’t enjoy eating one, it’s just that I never really get a craving for it. If it was a special cut of a rare animal or smothered in some ethnic sauce I’ve never tried, or cooked a rare spice— I would be more likely to go out of my way for the experience. But honestly, although I eat out often, steakhouses never quite seem to make the cut.
Classic steakhouse, classic menu
I was glad I gave steak another chance at Cousino’s Steakhouse, a short hop from downtown on Toledo’s East Side.
I arrived with a guest on a Friday evening around 6:30pm, just as the parking lot was beginning to fill. Greeted by a smiling hostess and seated almost immediately near a cozy fireplace, we encamped at a table with black linen, seated next to a painting of a friar soliciting us to indulge. The expansive wine and dinner menus were set in front of us and we took a moment to ponder the selections as soft music and and the sweet smell of grilled meat set the tone. Decorated with antiques and knick-knacks, the decor was old-fashioned, yet inviting.
Cousino’s Steakhouse has been in business for 70 years— an incredible feat in the restaurant industry. Throughout food trends and the ups-and-downs of the culinary world, Cousino’s has persevered. I was excited to get a plate in front of me to find out why.
Flame on!
Our waitress directed us through the long list of signature dishes and daily specials prepared by Chef Quille Alexander, who has worked for Cousino’s for the past 5 years. All of the classic steakhouse fare was there: porterhouse, filet mignon, prime rib, lobster tail, burgers, French onion soup, pasta— it would be difficult not to find something that you like. Chef Quille put it this way, “we try to add to the menu often, but we have a hard time taking things off.”
We started with wine from the well-stocked list and an appetizer, the baked brie over toast with an 18-year old balsamic vinegar, which arrived decorated with fresh slices of strawberries and blueberries. The vinegar was sweet, yet earthy, against the ripe, tart cheese and the charred, crunchy bread, adding a wonderful texture and a bit of bitterness against the natural sweetness of the fruit.
Next we enjoyed the two soup offerings. The signature French onion and the chef’s offering of the day, a creamy mushroom soup. The French onion soup was served blazing hot, filling the table with the aromas of roasted onion and beef broth— it was a savory, bubbly delight. The mushroom soup was delicate and smooth with hints of sherry and thyme and bits of portabella and chives throughout the cup.
For entrees, we ordered two steakhouse traditions, the chef’s special steak, ordered medium rare, and the calf’s liver and onions. Both were phenomenal. Diamond shaped grill lines adorned the steak, browned on the outside with a pink and juicy medium-rare inside, just warmed through to the center. It was served on a hot skillet with a side of Cousino’s signature potato casserole, a mix of potato, celery, onion and a zesty sour cream that gave a zing of acidity. The calf’s liver was seared on both sides and cooked to a tender me dium temperature and buried under a mound of caramelized onions— soft, sweet, tender and ever-so-lovely. Also on the plate were fresh green beans, blanched and tossed in butter, a crisp and crunchy contrast to the mild and earthy liver. Truth be told, it may have been my favorite liver and onions ever.
Sunday brunch
Cousino’s Steakhouse serves a generous brunch every Sunday from 11am-3pm— we had such a great experience at dinner that we returned two days later to try it out. We weren’t disappointed. Besides the customary French toast, sliced ham, and breakfast pastries, Cousino’s had an admirable array of creative brunch offerings like chicken meatballs in a marinara sauce, Philly-style sirloin steak with sautéed peppers and onions, Jerk-seasoned steak tips with homefries and a light and fluffy vegetable quiche. There was even a fully stocked salad bar and in the corner of the buffet, a chef standing by to carve slices of steaming hot top-round roast and to pour a ladle of au jus on top.
Cousino’s Steakhouse has been serving Toledo since 1945. That’s a long time to perfect their craft and they have certainly made their (grill) mark with locals.
11am-9pm Sunday-Thursday | 11am-10am Friday & Saturday
Cousino’s Steakhouse, 1842 Woodville Rd., Oregon
419-693-0862 | cousinossteakhouse.com
