When Adam, my waiter* at Revolution Grille, presented me with the finish to my marathon meal, he politely declined to remark on my gluttony. By the time he placed the dessert on the table I had already allowed myself a last meal indulgence fit for a condemned inmate — two hours of a steady stream of appetizers and entrees.
But I’d seen the strawberry peach shortcake perched on a cloud of cream float by to surrounding tables, and, with my willpower already in shreds, I placed an order for one to finish my meal.
When it arrived, the circle of shortcake sitting on top was attempting, but failing, to contain what was underneath. From-scratch whipped cream spilled over in folds; slices of peaches and strawberries soaked in Grand Marnier spread across the bottom, their juices seeping and filling the edges of the plate. Honestly, it looked downright sexy.
It’s one of dozens of riffs on American cuisine from Chef Rob Campbell**, the proprietor of Revolution Grille (with backing from area restaurant giant Mainstreet Ventures). His restaurant glows — spotlights shine from above, making every table a stage for his entrees; the menus, iPad-like touch tablets, illuminate diners’ faces as they decide what to order; his bright, open kitchen casts light across the marble bar. Waiters in long red aprons and black t-shirts scoot between tight spaces, past the chef, who wanders between tables in his white coat, mingling with patrons, not with the air of an eager-to-please entrepreneur, but as a cook ready to relax with his guests after preparing an epic meal.
Campbell is from the school of “fat is flavor” — his appreciation for it is everywhere. Shreds of bacon are nestled in the fudge-y frosting spread across a sourdough chocolate cupcake; his braised beef short ribs taste rich and dense; green tomatoes are fried and stacked with layers of bacon (again) and goat cheese. As intense as much of his food is, he’s equally adept at whipping up dishes with a refreshingly light touch. The grilled romaine caesar salad tastes delicious, like a charcoal grill — romaine hearts are grilled and chilled, then placed on top of folds of beef carpaccio. Campbell was formerly the chef at Bluewater Grille, and his time there imparted some creativity with seafood. Lobster five bean salad is tossed together with shaved fennel, garlic, tarragon vinaigrette and white truffle oil. Tender chunks of grilled walleye inside crunchy taco shells made a nearly perfect appetizer.
What Campbell has achieved with his new restaurant is a reflection of the creative burst chef-owned spots are injecting into Toledo’s dining scene. Revolution Grille reflects his energy and tastes, and has intention — there is attention to detail and vision in everything from the seasonal menu to the extra-polished staff that welcomes diners who clean their plates of his inventive food.
Revolution Grille, 5333 Monroe St. (in the Hobby Lobby plaza).
Monday thru Thursday, 4:30-11pm; Friday & Saturday, 4:30pm-midnight; Sunday 4-9pm.
419-841-0070. www.revolutiongrille.com.
*I’m not sure when calling waiters “servers” came into fashion, but I am both too lazy to look up the reasoning behind it and too stubborn to change.
**He’s a midwestern chef by way of New England: an Adrian, Michigan native trained at the New England Culinary Institute in Essex Junction, Vermont who was formerly at the helm of Bluewater Grille in Maumee.
