A few words spring to mind when I think of sushi: delicate, ornate, pricey. Fast and affordable, however? Not on the list. Chef Chee Wang is trying to change that perception with his new venture, Sakura Express.
Housed in a cozy space adjacent to the Meijer on Conant St.—Sakura Express is a far cry from the spacious interior of the original Sakura on Monroe St. I was greeted by the familiar sounds of the home Sakura: oil sizzling on flat-top grills and the clanging of steel spatulas.
Wang, a lifelong hibachi grill veteran and a manager at the Monroe St. Sakura since its 2007 opening, in 2007, conceived of Sakura Express as a cost-effective alternative to opening a second full restaurant. “Not everyone wants to spend $30 for a meal, so we wanted to offer the same experience for a lower price, by giving quick service with a smaller staff and space,” Wang said.
As a fast casual restaurant, Sakura Express sports no hibachi grilling, but those who find the tableside theatrics distracting will welcome the change. The interior design is spartan, but warm, with tasteful wood paneling on the walls, matching the tables. Conveniently, the food is served in to-go containers even when eating in, so customers can come and go as they please. In the express setting, the goal is pure food..jpg)
The menu reads like a stripped-down take on the original Sakura, with nine sushi rolls and four of Sakura’s lauded house rolls. Wang chose those four rolls (Dynamite, Hot Babe, Spicy Girl and Spicy Tempura) for their mass appeal. “We gathered data from Sakura … and picked the four most popular house rolls,” Wang said. I ordered the Hot Babe, a seared tuna and avocado roll topped with spicy salmon, and found it smooth, with most of the spice sneaking up in the aftertaste.
Sushi isn’t the only option at Sakura Express—the restaurant also offers a selection of teriyaki dishes, salads and appetizers. My spring roll appetizer came piping hot, with plenty of crunch. The beef teriyaki and fried rice is comfort food with a hint of peanut in the sauce lending a little twist.
But the bento box option packs the menu’s highest bang-for-buck value. “You get a little of everything,” Wang explained. “You get something from the cooking kitchen, something from the grill and something from the sushi bar.” The bento, a tradition dating back to 12th century Japan, consists of a full meal including protein, rice and vegetables packed into a convenient-to-carry box. Sakura Express sports five bento options (chicken, beef, salmon, shrimp and tofu), each including four California rolls, two wontons and a salad. I chose the tofu, and found its creamy texture heartening. My favorite part of the bento box came not from the protein, but from the crisp ginger dressing, which made for an excellent palate cleanser.
Sakura Express has its own merits. For a straightforward eating experience without the wait to be seated and entertained by grilling antics, Sakura Express offers a convenient alternative.
11am-10pm Mon-Sat, 11am-9pm Sun. Sakura Express, 1385 Conant St., Maumee. 419-887-1156. sakuratoledo.com
