The word is out. Of course Toledo has no shortage of Mexican food, but the downtown area has a lunchtime destination that’s being talked about all over. The eager and curious are making their way to Broadway Street in the shadow of the High Level Bridge, to get a taste of
the fabulous cooking to be found in the unlikeliest of places.
Our staff headed for San Marcos Super Market to see for ourselves what the fuss was about. We found a small neighborhood ethnic grocery. Hardly where you’d expect to find culinary magic. But the bright, cozy space has a charm all its own.
Warm fresh pastries wait inside the door, colorful piñatas hanging above. Typical selections share space with Latin delicacies—a vast selection of spices and dried chiles, as well as an impressive meat counter with goods you might not find at the mega-grocery stores, from fresh pork rinds to beef tripe to cured pig’s feet. But the crowds gather in the corner of the store, where the staff at the taco counter are briskly and efficiently serving up the food that’s winning raves. With good reason. We devoured the cantina-style tacos, available in chicken, steak, and pork The burritos were pronounced “awesome.” Tortas and quesadillas round out the menu, and you can wash it down with fresh melon or papaya juice.
“We saw a need to have original Mexican food,” says operations manager Bob Reed-Schramm. “There’s nothing like that.” Teaming up with San Marcos owner Oscar Gomez three years ago, they created the store’s taqueria, and have been nothing but thrilled with the rapturous
reception.
“I’ve been doing this [the restaurant business] for thirty years,” Reed-Schramm says. “I’ve never seen this kind of response.” The unassuming lunch counter began with 20 seats. But “we’re averaging 50 people a day,” Reed-Schramm says. “Sometimes they’re lined up.” In the warm, happy atmosphere of a city lunch hour, a visitor can see patrons from all walks of life. “You’ll have a banker alongside a ditchdigger; we’ve had rock n’ roll players, and they’re all sitting at the same counter.”
Success hasn’t spoiled San Marcos, and there’s more to come. “We’re opening up a hundred seat restaurant,” in an adjacent space formerly used for storage, Reed-Schramm says. Work is already well underway, with a striking mural taking shape. It should be open within months. Soon enough, any air of “well-kept secret” about San Marcos will be gone. Take the time to get a taste of it. 235 Broadway St. 419-244-2373.
