Men of the moment who are making their mark
How to Wear a Suit 101
Eden Couture’s Nicholas J. Harper gives us a crash course in suiting up for any occasion
By Erin Holden
Nicholas J. Harper began drawing apparel designs before he realized that, if you want something done right, sometimes you just have to do it yourself. His inability to compromise on his vision led him to start making his own suits. His great grandmother gave him a sewing machine and he started to learn on his own before attaining his bachelor’s in fashion design and doing an apprenticeship with master tailor Ervin Arnold in Adrian, Michigan.
He opened his business— then called Eden Tailoring— in 2014 before changing the name to reflect the custom-made clothing he is now known for. His business goes beyond the art of tailoring and into the realm of high fashion. We asked him to give us the ins and outs of what it takes to craft a look that will make heads turn.
What looks are in right now when it comes to suits?
Now a lot of people are into a tailored look— tapered pants, as well as fitted jackets. Another common thing has been high-water pants so that your ankles show. I don’t particularly care for it, but it’s what a lot of people are doing because they see celebrities doing it.
Are there any current trends that you see as being on the way out?
It really depends on the generation. The more mature generation tends to stick to the more classic, traditional look. The younger generation is kind of all over the place because they don’t really know what to do. So they’re going based off of what they see on TV and what they see celebrities do. One thing that’s going out— especially for the younger generation— is the pleated pants. More people are starting to wear flat-front pants instead.
Some of what’s in style right now for suits seems to reflect the fit that was popular in the mid-60s— a Mad Men sort of look.
Yeah, and a lot of people are also getting into the Great Gatsby look because for a lot of people in the millennial generation and the generation after— they don’t necessarily wear suits for business; they’re wearing suits for the fashion. It’s pretty out there. They’re wearing a lot of bold patterns, a lot of sequins.
What are some staples of the Great Gatsby look?
If someone wanted to have that kind of suit, what are the specifics? Generally, it’s a white shirt. A lot of time it’s a three-piece suit, but, what a lot of people do when they’re trying to pull off the Great Gatsby look, is they do a vest that is a different color than the jacket and pants, or they have the pants and the vest match, but wear a different jacket.
Your Instagram page shows a lot of your looks involve mixing patterns. If someone wants to experiment with mixing this, what advice would you give?
The right way to mix patterns is not to do any pattern that is alike. That’s where a lot of people go wrong. They’ll jump to two different types of stripes or two different types of plaids. You either want to go with something solid or something that is completely different.
Then, when you do try to mix patterns that are the same, they have to be a different size. If you do a plaid, you would have a big plaid and a small plaid. You don’t want to do the same plaid because then it kind of all just blends together and it looks like too much. The eye just really can’t take in all that.
Should you consider body type when picking a suit for yourself?
If you’re buying a suit from a store, yes. Because suits purchased in the store are made to fit many different people. For instance, a guy who is bigger usually stays away from the double-breasted suit because it has to be made a certain way to look proportionate on him. Then, the size of the lapel makes a huge difference. The smaller you are, the smaller you want your lapel. A lot of times what happens is we get guys who are bigger and wear the skinny lapels and a skinny tie which actually makes them look bigger because everything you’re looking at is so small on them, it just doesn’t fit right.
How do you know when you have the right fit?
There really are important areas when you’re thinking about the fit of the suit. You can take it to a tailor to make alterations done, but there are some alterations that a tailor just really can’t do. One of the biggest areas is the shoulders. If it fits in the shoulders but is a little big in the waist, that’s still fine because a tailor can take the waist in, but if the shoulders are too big, that is way too much work for a tailor to take those shoulders down. If the shoulders are way too small, you start to get wrinkles and divets in the jacket It just looks bad.
Who are your favorite style icons who know how to rock a suit like no one else? What are they doing right?
I would definitely put Tom Ford at the top because he always has a classic look whether he wears a tie or not. And James Bond because his suits always fit great.
What are common mistakes that people make when ordering a suit?
Sometimes it is where the pants fit at the bottom. Sometimes people buy pants that are too big or buy pants that are too small. Another thing is the sleeve length. Some of that comes from people who buy a suit that’s too big and the shoulders are kind of hanging off the shoulder which makes the sleeves longer.
What about some trends you’d like to see go away?
I would like to see the high-water pants go away. It’s not totally bad, but it’s become too much now. Everybody’s doing it, and they kind of do it in the wrong environments. It’s not a good look because if you’re going to a business meeting and you’re wearing high water pants, people are just going to think your pants are too small. People need to know what to wear based on the occasion.
How does a great suit change the person wearing it?
I think, firstly, it changes the person’s posture because when you feel good, you look good. When a person puts on that suit that looks and feels good on them, they stand up straighter because they feel proud.
Things to keep in mind when accessorizing
One of the things I always tell people is to find one statement piece and let that be the statement. A lot of times you get somebody who is just doing too much, so your eyes don’t really know what to look at because they have a super busy tie with a super busy shirt and a super busy suit with super busy shoes…it’s like what am I looking at? It’s best to pick one thing to be the center of attention and let everything else compliment it so that it’s not drawing away from the look but adding to it.
Best Kept Men
Advice from Ada Aesthetics’ Jarrod Del Vecchio and Dr. Tal
From regrettable tattoos and starting a brand new skincare routine to manscaping, looking good might seem like a lot of hard work. Fortunately, Ada Aesthetics’ Jarrod Del Vecchio and Dr. Abdul Kader Tal have filled us in on what’s worth the time and effort.
Looking to begin a skincare and anti-aging routine that won’t cost a king’s ransom, or cut into your busy schedule? We asked Jarrod Del Vecchio, #theskincareguy and Toledo’s #1 Aesthetician, for his best advice.
“There is no such thing as a quick fix in skincare. Beware of products on the internet and TV that promise ‘unbelievable results.’ Remember, clinical skincare delivers real results but requires clinical supervision from a trained expert.
At Ada Aesthetics, we use tools like the VISIA Complexion Analyzer to customize a comprehensive approach to help men reach their skincare goals. For men just beginning their skincare journey, I recommended a Deep Clean skin treatment to address the most common concerns, like blackheads and sun damage. Post-treatment, I will customize a treatment plan to keep their skin exercised and in balance, that will fit into their busy schedules. Do not underestimate the boost of confidence you’ll gain from having refreshed & hydrated skin.”
5 Tips from Dr. Abdul Kader Tal
Have a tattoo that you regret? Want to “manscape” correctly? Curious about how “brotox” could boost your look? We asked Dr. Abdul Kader Tal for his five best tips for men.
PRP for hair restoration. PRP (platelet rich plasma) is the newest and hottest topic in hair growth! It is a very efficient and reliable technique in almost all kinds of hair loss with minimal pain on discomfort and easy on the wallet compared to hair transplant procedures, which could cost upwards of $10,000.00.
Brotox and fillers. Men are asking me more and more often for cosmetic treatments, particularly botox and fillers, not only to look younger but also to enhance their looks for their job interviews or for their Instagram photos. A squared strong jaw is always desired in men! And a little BOTOX in the forehead can erase the evidence of too many late-night parties.
Laser hair removal. There is nothing better and faster to get rid of unwanted hair than laser hair removal. With the newer lasers, expect a comfortable experience and less time to see optimal results.
Sun damage. Our Pico Genesis Laser Facials will erase the years of sun damage and help tighten your skin. If you’re looking for a zero-social downtime procedure for sun damage & wrinkles, this is the laser for you.
Tattoo removal. If you are like the 1 in 5 people with tattoo regret, our Pico Laser is perfect for you. Quick and comfortable, our Enlighten 3 Tattoo Laser delivers the best clearance of unwanted tattoos in fewer treatments than traditional nanolasers, saving you money and time.
For more information, visit Ada Aesthetics
12780 Roachton Rd., Perrysburg
& 7640 W. Sylvania Ave., Suite E, Sylvania.
419-873-6961 | adaaesthetics.com
Sticking up for the Little Guy
Bruce W. Boerst, Attorney at Law, shares the life lessons he lives by
Hanging My Own Shingle
After working many years for a large law firm and eventually coming to the conclusion that working in a large firm is not fun— it often restricted my desire to take-on particular legal matters— I started The Boerst Law Firm in 2009 with the modest ambition of completely changing the way I practiced law. While hanging my own shingle stripped me of the financial security of constant and recurring pay, it allows me the freedom to choose the type of cases I handle (Personal Injury, Criminal Defense and Domestic Relations) and the way I operate our client-focused firm. I thoroughly enjoy my clients and hope to connect with every single one of them on a very personal level. Our goal is that each client leaves our office feeling like they truly matter….because they do! I owe my clients (and, of course, my incredibly supportive family) everything. Without them, I am just a guy …in a fancy suit…twiddling my thumbs …alone in my office.
The Learning Curve
Once this “milestone” is realized, it remains a constant; ongoing and never-ending. Any attorney that tells you that he/she has it all figured out is either lying to you or has their head… well… elsewhere. Just when I think the educational endeavor of practicing law may be over, I find myself continuously operating along a stimulating learning curve where I aim to sharpen my lawyering skills and work toward achieving the next levels of success for myself and, more importantly, for my clients. I find that the key to my continued professional satisfaction is self-awareness— admitting when I may be in over my head and to only take on new/additional clientele if and when I am able to devote the time and careful attention each deserves – all while maintaining a strict commitment to my priceless personal relationships with family and friends.
The Comfortable Place
Now that I’ve acknowledged and accepted my own learning curve, I now spend my days (and nights…and most weekends) attempting to fine-tune my legal career and business endeavors. This milestone also comes with the reward of feeling professionally secure. It is at this point that I’ve now become able to take on more challenging cases that further fuel my passion to help people. When a “David vs. Goliath” battle ensues, I naturally prefer to be in David’s corner.
Lately, I’ve had the pleasure of assisting numerous individuals across the nation in their endeavor to hold many large corporations responsible for the destructive and dangerous prescription drugs they push to the consumer markets, collect massive profits and watch real people suffer.
Another recent local example: I recently represented an adorable young child who was severely scalded by the tap water in the home in which she lived. Several attorneys throughout the state turned this child’s case down indicating to her parents that it may be unlikely that the injuries caused by the child’s negligent landlord could be proven in court. Well, we accepted the challenge and tirelessly fought the multi-billion dollar insurance company who was vigorously defending the negligent party. Today, that same young girl has been fully and fairly compensated for her injuries, and we were able to raise awareness related to safe water temperatures in a residential setting in hopes that other individuals do not suffer similar injuries.
To help an individual who has been injured by another’s actions or inactions brings me an insurmountable amount of joy.
The honor (and sheer shock) bestowed upon me by the ever-fabulous TCP to be featured in this GQ Edition. Despite the suit and fancy office, I am just a “Regular Joe” who prefers a pick-up truck to a fancy Benz any day!
Bruce’s favorite things
Where he eats: Mancy’s— especially Mancy’s Bluewater Grille— and Barr’s Public House.
What he listens to: All about 90s grunge— he listens to Pearl Jam every day and he’s been to 18 of their live shows— and local rock band Red Wanting Blue.
What he’s watching: Just about any Netflix documentary and college football.
What he’s reading right now: Malcolm Gladwell’s Blink: The Power of Thinking Without Thinking.
Where he shops: Jupmode for casual wear and custom clothier Tom James Company for suits.
Five Things I Notice About Your Face When I Draw You
By Isaac Klunk
Quick— think of your best friend. What does their face look like? How well could you describe it, or draw it? If you’re like most people, you probably don’t remember faces as well as you think. But, if you’re an artist— and more specifically, a caricature artist— your ability to recognize and remember faces is a skill well-honed by looking at things differently.
Want to see through the eyes of an artist? We asked local illustrator and caricature artist Isaac Klunk about the five things he notices first about the faces he draws.
The shape and angle of your nose. All other things being equal, I usually start by drawing the nose: it’s in front of everything else, so there’s no risk of any other feature accidentally overlapping it later in the drawing. And if it’s particularly prominent or unique in some way, it can determine a lot about how the rest of the facial shape ends up.
Your eyes and your mouth. Early in my career, somebody told me that if you draw someone’s eyes and mouth accurately, you can completely wing it on the rest of the face and still capture a likeness. There’s a lot of truth in that; both are key features when it comes to how we recognize a person and how we communicate our feelings non-verbally.
What your eyebrows are doing. Eyebrows, in particular, convey a ton of information about our emotional state and can have a very distinct appearance from one person to the next. When you’re drawing with a marker as I do, that’s a lot of information contained in two simple lines! Exaggerating how low, high, large, small, or asymmetrical someone’s eyebrows are can bring out the emotion and life in a person’s face in a big way.
What happens when you smile. Smiling has a big effect on our face, drawing out our cheeks, changing that shape of our eyes, and (most obviously) showing off our teeth. When I draw someone with a smile, I want to draw their eyes, jaw, and cheeks smiling too, not just their mouth; a happy mouth paired with blank eyes looks insincere and vacant.
Your attitude. Then again, often I won’t draw a smile at all. Capturing a physical likeness is the number one goal, but I also try to convey something about the personality of my subject in every drawing, whether it’s capturing their manic energy, a nervous bearing, or even grouchiness. Some of my drawings that receive the best reactions are of sullen children whose parents are forcing them to be drawn; if someone doesn’t feel like smiling, I’m not here to force it! Getting a read on people’s personalities quickly is a good skill for a caricature artist to have in general, because it can tell you how far to push your exaggeration: you really want to know who has a sense of humor and who doesn’t as soon as they take a seat!
Isaac Klunk is an illustrator and caricature artist based in Toledo, Ohio, where his humorous and expressive works have been eliciting laughs (and occasional tears) for the better part of a decade. For more information about Isaac’s work, including pricing and details for caricature commissions, visit iklunk.com or follow him on social media at facebook.com/iklunk and instagram.com/iklunk.
Is MMA an Exercise in Mindfulness?
Dakota Leach draws parallels between his training and day-to-day life
We can always hold ourselves accountable. I’ve learned that every mistake we make in life is an opportunity to look at one’s self and to improve. It’s much easier to point our fingers at adversity and claim victimhood. It’s not as easy to take adversity as an opportunity to challenge yourself and grow.
It goes without saying that the more you practice something, the better you will perform. When you practice defending yourself, you are testing your reflexes. You’re training your mind and body to react in a composed way. Reacting with emotion can spell your end. I practice as if failing is going to bring dire consequences. It’s not, but practicing this way has made me much more dialed in and aware of my mistakes, allowing me to work more quickly towards correcting them.
If you don’t keep your emotions in check, it’ll bring about your end. If I’m put in an uncomfortable situation in a fight, I can’t just lash out in anger or shell up in fear. The more I get angry, nervous, maybe even jealous, the more I’m feeding negativity, allowing it to fester and bring me further down. Keeping composure is high on my list of priorities in and outside of MMA.
Not every day can be a good one, nor should it be. The media likes to portray top fighters as more than human, but they are like everybody else. They’re just more hardened. Training day-to-day can be brutal on the body (and on the mind if your head isn’t in the right place). If you’re in a gym full of pro fighters, you are going to be tested physically and mentally, time after time. The best fighters in the world were not born as the best fighters in the world; it took many days to build themselves to that point. MMA has given me a way to be grateful for a bad day because I know that’s just more growth. Even if I have a thousand bad days in a row, the person I grew to be on that one good day is worth it.
“Make Something Every Day,” and other life-lessons from the eternally enigmatic Andrew Ellis
Andrew Ellis is surprisingly soft-spoken for an Americana roots-rocker with a deep, smoky voice. He’s also astonishingly humble, despite boasting a storied career playing in Toledo bars and on European stages (during six international tours). Like most, Ellis enjoys success (it is a happy perk), but it isn’t his motivation. If it was, he probably wouldn’t have slowed the pace of his music career to start his fine arts practice two years ago. But he did, and he loves it. And so do his fans.
Exceeding, and ignoring, expectations are sort of Ellis’ thing. But, for a man full of surprises, he’s a straight shooter: “I always try to be as authentic as I possibly can. There’s not a whole lot for me to hide behind, which is a blessing and a curse.”
Dichotomies play a huge role in Ellis’ world, but one thing about Ellis is crystal-clear: he adamantly believes that creativity is not just an ability— it’s an action.
“I’ve always felt that to be creative means you’re creating something,” says Ellis. “So I make at least one thing every day.”
But to keep up with his goals, Ellis stays busy. Like, really busy, splitting his time between his music and visual art practices. He plays live music four to five nights every week, including his long-standing Wednesday night gig at the Village Idiot, and spends the other nights in the art studio. During the day, Ellis says he’s practicing music, studying, reading, and researching: “I try to look at everything to find inspiration.”
Ellis’s music career is still bustling and his art practice continues to grow. In December, Ellis will debut new artworks at Barr’s Public House during his second solo exhibit, combining his twin passions on December 5th for the exhibit opening, which will feature a meet-and-greet from 6-8pm and a concert from 8-11pm. All works will be for sale and will remain on view throughout the month. (For more info, visit Facebook.com/andrewellismusic or facebook.com/andrewellisart.)
Want to get under his influence? Explore the words of wisdom that keep Ellis on track.
Tips for teenagers
1. Save your money
2. Get comfortable with being alone
3. Stay busy
4. Identify your passions
Advice for everyone
Be a servant to your friends, family, strangers. Carry a burden onto yourself, to alleviate the burden of others. However, be judicious. Evil men are more favorable, heaped under weights unimaginable.
1. Don’t argue in public.
2. Always speak in a positive manner about your partner.
3. Don’t complain about your partner, even to friends, mom, etc.
4. Do you want to be right, or be happy?
5. A relationship isn’t 50/50, it’s 100%. You must cover your partner’s slack.
7. Understand that most of the world/existence means nothing.
8. Do the dishes.
10. Explain your complaints, while calm. Not when you’re fighting.